RIAU

Travelling in Indonesia

The territory of this rich province includes a sizable slice of the eastern Sumatran coast and more than 3,000 islands of all sizes.

Riau, although comparatively small in both size and population (about 2.5 million), is the heartland of the Malays and the cradle of Indonesia's Malay-based national language and culture. The first book of Malay grammar, the Bustanul Katibin, was written and published here in 1857. Its links with Johor on the West Malaysian mainland have been long and strong.

Sitting astride one of the world's oldest and busiest trade routes, the Strait of Malacca, the Riau islands have for many centuries provided a safe haven to ships plying the sea lanes between Europe, India and China. The rise of Malay power, however, began somewhere around the 13th century, when that of the Buddhist kingdom of Sriwijaya began to crumble. Malay kingdoms emerged on both sides of the Malacca Strait.

In 1402, Parameswara founded Malacca, a kingdom which was to play a pivotal role in the history of the area in the century that was to come. Being the first to come into contact with European and other seafarers, the language of the area, Malay was adopted by the newcomers to make themselves understood in the region. So, apparently, the spread of the language began in 1511, however, Malacca fell to the Portuguese who had come in their quest for gold, gospel and glory. Malacca's Sultan Mahmud Syah fled south, settling first in Johore, then in Bintan in the Riau archipelago.

Since then, it was a period of wars and intrigues for the Malay states around the Straits, further aggravated by the arrival of the Dutch and the British in the early 17th century. To make a long and complicated story short, peace was restored only after the signing of the Treaty of London in 1824, giving the Dutch control of all the European territories south of Singapore, and the British of all the colonies towards its north.

The link between Johor and Riau was severed. With the subjugation and dissolution of the recalcitrant Riau sultanate in 1911, the Dutch effectively established their power over the islands. Riau's cultural clout, however, endured.

The smallest islands of the Riau archipelago are no more than rocky reefs, about one hectare (2.5 acres). The larger Bintan, Lingga and Singkep islands are about 1,000 hectares in size.

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